Christmas shopping in Galle Fort.
Fed up with the frenzy of shopping and pre-Christmas buzz in Colombo, I escaped to Galle Fort for a peaceful couple of days with friends. My nagging list of unfinished things-to-do and a rather lengthy Christmas gift list was happily put aside to do when I return from my much earned r & r. Our hideout in Galle Fort was The Courtyard, a really nice and homely Dutch period villa at the corner of Lighthouse & Pedlar Street. I soon discovered, this was the best corner to be at this time of year!
It was December 22nd and life was getting on at the usually slow pace inside Fort with the vegetable vendor going door-to-door with his cart full of fresh veges, couples under colourful umbrellas on the ramparts, and children playing cricket by the lighthouse. Strolling along the maze of streets, there was so much more waiting to be discovered…. shops, museums, art galleries, cafes and restaurants all just around the corner. Out came my unfinished shopping list. Glittering Bindi bangles from Lollapalooza, a fun floppy hat from Barefoot, chunky turquoise beaded chain from the Dutch Museum shop, from Roots a colourful painting of a map of Galle Fort on a ceramic tile, an exquisite piece of pottery form the Orchid House, a slinky silk blouse from Mimimango, and a copy of `Around the Fort in 80 Lives’ by Juliet Coomb from the Kahanda Kanda shop. All done and having indulged in many a cup of latte and home made brownies at the Pedlar’s Inn, I decided this was the most enjoyable and stress free Christmas shopping spree I had ever done. A great holiday all in all with so much fun and good times!
Bawa House 87.
Just before the Christmas rush I was able to escape for a day to visit some new properties in the Bentota area last week. One of these was the wonderful Bawa House 87 where I spent an utterly peaceful morning. Enter through the large white gates and an instant sense of serenity takes over as your eyes gaze down the green lawns leading to a lake. Set on 17 acres of jungle gardens, lakes, and marshland, this inspiring setting was created by Geoffrey Bawa in the 1960’s for artist Lydia Gunasekera. The property is now opened for guests and has two tastefully designed bungalows – The Pavilion with two double rooms and The Shop House which has two single rooms. Similar to Bawa’s Lunuganga situated close by, the gardens at Bawa House 87 are a work of art in itself with meandering pathways, gigantic Bird’s Nest ferns, 100 year old Banyan and Tamarind trees and plenty of exotic birds hovering on the tree tops. This is an oasis of calm and tranquility.
With less than a month to go, Negombo is fast sprucing up for `Feel Negombo 2009’ – a beach festival to be held from 11-13 December organised by Sri Lanka Tourism Board. Planned along the lines of the popular Hikkaduwa Beach Festival, this event promises even more. From colourful street parades, adventurous watersports, family bonfires to late night rave parties – there’s something for all ages and this is being marketed as a family-friendly event. There will be catamaran rides, snorkelling, jet-skiing, and paint-balling to name just a few of the activities. By night Negombo’s beautiful shores will come alive with the pulsating rhythms of the Brazilian drummers and Sri Lanka’s own fabulous fusion musicians – Triloka and Elephant Foot drummers. For more programme information check out www.feelnegombo.com, www.srilanka.travel
Some good news just in: the adventurous can once again look forward to soaring high above the untouched wilderness, ancient ruins and rock temples of the Cultural Triangle. From November, Red Dot is once again able to offer hot air balloon safaris from Kandalama to Dambulla. Galle is another spectacular location for hot air ballooning. A typical trip would start at dawn and last for about an hour depending on the prevailing winds. Flights depart about 15kms inland from Galle and rises to about 2,000ft – 3,000ft providing a panoramic view of Galle’s inland lakes and waterways, beautiful south coast shoreline, and the 17th century Dutch Fort. Ballooning trips are offered daily throughout the season from November to April when the winds are light and the sky at its bluest. For further information: Click Here
It’s late October in Sri Lanka. I arrived from England last week expecting to spend my first month on the island seeing out the end of the monsoon – nothing of the sort! The weather has been glorious.
I am sharing a flat in Colombo whilst working for a few months for Red Dot, but I took the chance to head south on my first weekend back here after 2 years away. I took something of a quick beach tour from my weekend base in Galle’s beautiful fort – consisting of Mirissa, a few drinks and a game of beach football at Talpe, and Bentota.
First, I moseyed down to Sri Lanka’s Deep South and to Mirissa beach; sleepy by reputation, and very sleepy upon my arrival. See www.mirissa.com for a look at the beach – although remember that Red Dot Tours has the best accommodation advice! I know that October is still low season, but where is everyone? I found myself standing, bathed in sunshine and vivid blue skies, on a quiet, cracking little paradise beach. ‘Lucky me’ I thought, but isn’t this what the holiday-goer classically craves?
A couple of owners of beach properties said they don’t intend to fully open up until November is well underway, but my advice is don’t be afraid to beat the rush and get yourself over here from early November onwards. The sea was still easily hospitable enough for a decent dip thank you very much…
Just short of the island’s most south town of Matara, I went to along to check out Mirissa Water Sports www.mirissawatersports.com who, having benefitted from the Tsunami Aid development programme, run good sailing, fishing, and dolphin and whale watching from the harbour. Red Dot is updating its risk assessment, so I have been armed with forms and asking lots of questions.
Sunday’s route back up to Colombo from Galle saw me and friends stop more or less halfway at Bentota – the famous water-sports heart of Sri Lanka. I learn that surprisingly, although Bentota is one of the island’s more popular resorts, the vast, sandy beach is relatively quiet and it is an excellent diving location. The beach can be divided into two, the north end comprising a spit of land – dubbed “Paradise Island” – dividing the waves of the Indian Ocean from the still waters of the Bentota Lagoon.
We took a left off the Galle Road (heading north) and dropped in on Sunshine Water Sports, off the Ganga River. From here, you can get fully stuck in to array of water sports options: water skiing, wakeboarding, knee boarding, jet skiing, and banana boating. Or, something more relaxing might take your fancy – go deep-sea fishing or take a boat safari down the river to view the coast. If you are looking to stay, head towards the more pleasing southern end of the sandy beach where you’ll find some of the island’s best upmarket hotels, restaurants and watering holes. Bentota is worth it.
Now I have to work out what’s next on the agenda. Next weekend could either be all green dungarees and handle-bar moustaches for Colombo’s very own Bavarian beer festival – Oktoberfest –or perhaps I need to get out of the city and sit on a beach… why not Hikkaduwa? … Happy days.
Sri Lanka Design Festival 09.
A week of creative inspiration is on the cards for those interested in creative design. Sri Lanka Design Festival 2009, a pioneering effort that is expected to attract a global audience, will take place from Nov 27 to Dec 05 in Colombo. Conceptualised by the Academy of Design in Colombo and sponsored by the Government of Sri Lanka, a host of private sector companies and the British Council, the design festival will promote Sri Lanka’s creative industries from heritage crafts such as handloom textile weaving, pottery, and Beeralu lace making to contemporary arts and crafts, fashion design, and architecture. Well known local and foreign design personalities will conduct creative workshops, discussions, fashions shows and art exhibitions under the festival themes of `Design without Limits, Garments without Guilt, and Ideas without Boundaries.’ The festival events are to be held at the BMICH, Barefoot gallery and other venues in Colombo. For more details see:www.srilankadesignfestival.com
Some good news for Sri Lanka travelers: Etihad Airlines announced this week that they will resuming flights to Sri Lanka from January 2010. They will be operating four flights per week from Abu Dhabi to Colombo. Flight EY266 will depart Abu Dhabi on Monday, Wednesdays, Fridays and Sundays at 2155 and arrive at Colombo’s Bandaranaike International Airport at 0345 the following day. Return flight EY267 will depart Colombo on Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays at 0445 and arriving in Abu Dhabi at 0800 the same morning. Etihad had stopped flights in late 2007 due to a slump in demand but the end of the north-east conflict means the route should be profitable. Etihad’s return will provide tourists with another good option for travelling to Sri Lanka and hopefully ensure some extra competition to keep prices down. Hot on the heels of this news, SriLankan Airlines announced that it would be increasing flights to 12 cities worldwide based on rising tourist numbers. Tourist arrivals jumped 31% in August 2009 compared to the same month the previous year. Two flights have been added to the popular London-Colombo service.
I was on tour down south last week, checking old properties and visiting some new ones, and I was fortunate to discover my perfect escape: Back of Beyond Kahandamodara. Remote and truly back of beyond, this place is off the main A2 road about half an hour before you get to Tangalle coming via Nonagama Junction from Uda Walawe. The property is set on eleven acres of wilderness and mangroves by an estuary where the Uruboku Oya meets the sea. Having actually found it, leaving behind the peace and tranquillity of this place the next morning was so difficult. Although I preferred to just lie in my verandah watching peacock strutting about and having the wind blowing through my hair, the staff did convince me there was much to explore. So I set off on a walk through the estate, got in knee deep into the river that flows at the edge of the property, and onto the Oruwa which took us ever so slowly upto the beach. Except for two fishermen drying their nets, the beach was all ours…so secluded only with our own footprints engrained in the sand. A quite evening under a starlit night, a restful night in what was rustic yet quite a stylish room with cement rendered beds and a soothing blend of colours, I woke up next morning plotting and planning my return with a friend who I’m sure would love to have a Yoga retreat here.
Located on one of Thalpe’s beautiful small bays, Kikili Beach is breath of fresh air in terms of a private beach villa. The creation of Henri Tatham, the long-standing manager of the Sun House and the award-winning Dutch House, it feels the increasing demand for small one or two bedroom villas. Henri’s larger-than-life personality fills the Kikili Beach with character. The villa is cute, fun and colourful. The price is also an absolute bargain. The one downside is the absence of a swimming pool, but there are a variety of swimming beaches in the area and there are also some hotels that will allow you to spend the day beside their pools if you fancy lounging by a pool. The villa also has a lovely garden with comfy seating, including a great Ambalama (pavilion) overlooking the beach. The villa itself includes one en suite bedroom that is airconditioned. There is a small kitchen and breakfast area. The lounge has a comfortable day bed that can be used for a child. The villa is 10 minutes drive from Galle Fort and there is plenty to do in the local area including watersports, whale-watching trips, deep sea fishing and inland bike rides. If, like me, you like birding then Koggala Lake is another wonderful experience. Eagle Island has about 100 nesting Eagles, and there are other small islands with nesting parrots and a variety of bird species.
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