Sri Lanka Completes Elephant Census

Sri Lanka has just completed the first nationwide survey of its elephant population, aimed at better protecting the animals and their habitat.

Thousands of volunteers counted the elephants from watchtowers at 1,500 watering holes and ancient irrigation lakes.  Elephants are classified age and sex, and more knowledge is sought on their movements and distribution.

This is the driest time of year in Sri Lanka, and animals are at their most thirsty, so come to drink in more open habitats in large numbers, sometimes bringing them into conflict with the people. The conflict between farmers and free-ranging wild elephants results in dozens of human and elephant deaths each year and finding solutions is necessary to.

Sri Lanka revere elephants as sacred. Since ancient times, captive elephants have fulfilled ceremonial roles for priests and kings. Frustratingly for the Sri Lankan authorities, this involvement of elephants in pageants persuaded some conservationists to refuse to lend support to the census for fear that they might be supporting attempts to capture elephants and remove them from the wild.

A government wildlife official has tried to allay concern from conservationists that the census will be used to bring more animals into captivity. A senior wildlife official, RB Dissanayake, told the BBC they want to use the survey results to minimise clashes with people and declare new protected areas. The official denied that the census also serve to find strong young elephants to be captured and donated to temples. He said tame elephants would instead be bred from the existing domesticated or captive population.

Earlier this week, environmental groups pulled out of the elephant survey after a minister said it would be used to tame more of the animals. Wildlife Minister S. M. Chandrasena had been quoted in the Colombo-based Daily Mirror that the results of the survey would be used to identify elephants to be domesticated and handed over to the temples. The number of tamed elephants is thought to have declined from about 300 to perhaps half that number.

The fall in the number of elephants in Sri Lanka demands that a census is necessary. One estimate is that numbers have fallen from 12,000 to 4,000 over the past century. It seems clear that more information and action is needed to stem that decline – however passionately the conservationists may argue that their boycott was justifiable.

MCC Surrey Village ground opens in Maggona

The new Surrey Cricket ground at Maggona on Sri Lanka’s west coast was declared open at a ceremony held at the ground on 15th May. Paul Sheldon, the CEO of Surrey County Cricket Club and Chairman of the Oval Relief Trust, has initiated the concept and was in attendance alongside the Chairman of Sri Lanka Cricket, Mr. D. S. De Silva and SLC Secretary, Mr. Nishantha Ranatunga. The trio planted a tree each to commemorate the day followed by the traditional Buddhist practice of lighting the oil lamp. The procession continued with De Silva bowling the venue’s first ball to Sheldon.

Surrey Village has been one of the pet projects in providing assistance to tsunami affected areas and out of the £2.5 million that the Oval Relief Trust has given away for charities for victims of natural disasters, around £800,000 has been given to Sri Lanka. Funds have also built 50 houses in the area for tsunami victims. The fund raising effort for Maggona ground began back in 2005 with an international cricket match between an Asian XI including India’s Sachin Tendulkar, Sri Lanka’s own Muttiah Muralitharan and an International XI led by Australia’s Shane Warne at Lords.

The venue now represents a premier venue for the Kalutara District. Mr. Sheldon was optimistic that the ground will be well maintained so that school, club and first class games could be played at this venue on a regular basis. Hidden away in a cute setting off the Galle road between Bentota and Colombo, the ground has been cut into a slope giving the elevated pavilion views of the surrounding village and jungle. The venue will now be available for hire on Red Dot’s cricket tours packages.

A welcome return to Wilpattu – Sri Lanka’s largest national park

I have not been out in the jungles for a while due to an uncommonly rainy spell, so when Wilpattu, Sri Lanka’s largest national park, was reopeaned t the public I had to get my jungle dose. The lovely Anawila bungalow was going to be our base for 3 days. I had heard great things about this bungalow, which is only 1 km from the park entrance, and was really looking forward to staying here.

We planned to leave Colombo by dawn, but as usual things did not turn out the way we planned. One of my friends had overslept and we had to wake up the whole neighbourhood to get her to open the door. We had a leisurely breakfast at the Annavilundawa wetland, bought a few village vegetables on the way hoping that we could ask our bungalow keeper to make is an authentic Sri Lankan village curry, and it was about 1pm by the time we reached Aniwila.

We were quite beat after the long drive but all any complaining vanished the moment we walked in to the bungalow. It reminds one of a typical wildlife bungalow you have inside the parks but much more tastefully done and luxurious. There was a scramble to get the best sleeping beds in the top floor veranda where you can sit on your mattress and watch tree tops all around you. There is a lovely bedroom as well with an attached bathroom which is perfect for those who are not as keen about sleeping too close to nature. We spent the rest of the day resting and watching and photographing the wildlife all around. The next day we planned a full-day safari in the national park. Since it is such an expansive park, a full day inside the park is the best way to see and enjoy the wilds.

The rain did not stay away throughout the day and the ‘Villus’ in the park were over flowing as we drove through the park by jeep. Our tracker Dinesh, who has been in the park for over 11 years, showed us all the historical sites, old bungalows and spotted many birds for us to photograph. There were short spells of sunshine which gave us all some hope. Sadly we missed all the big game, but we did see very fresh pug marks of a leopard which had walked along the wet sand seconds earlier. There were also large herds of Spotted Deer all around the park and it was refreshing to see so many animals in this park after so long.

We also visited Kudiramale Point, known as the place where King Vijaya arrived in Sri Lanka in 432 BC. He then named the place ‘Thambapanni, which translated to ‘copper sand’ as the soil here has a distinctive colouration found nowhere in the island. We had to cross two main roads which have been cut through the park. One hopes that the beauty of this park and its wildlife will not be affected by unnecessary development.

We returned to Anavila for an early dinner and truly enjoyed a well cooked Sri Lankan rice and curry. The next morning, reluctant to leave, we were allowed to stay around until till late afternoon. Despite the return of the rain, we had a great weekend. Going back to Wilpattu was absolutely wonderful and staying at Anavila was an excellent way to relax and enjoy the wilds of Lanka.

Wilpattu’s Facebook page can be found at www.facebook.com

De-stressing in the Back of Beyond

I spent a relaxing three days in Kahandamodara recently at Back of Beyond. As the name suggests, this is truly back of beyond with nothing but fresh air, birds and wilderness. To me, an essential stress reliever that I yearn for time and again.

Laid out on 14 acres of wilderness that borders an estuary where the Urubokka River meets the sea, Back of Beyond Kahandamodara is preciously unhurried and laidback. Only the peacocks seem to be having a busy agenda strutting about trying to impress the peahens.

In between sipping coffee on my verandah, reading and watching the goings on with the birds and the buffaloes, there was plenty of time to explore the gravel paths to the Kahandamoda village, down river on an oruwa to the sea, and finally to the Kalametiya bird sanctuary.  Even Rekuwa where the Marine turtles come to nest is so close by here, but I left this adventure for another time. Once back, there was always a fabulous lunch with village vegetables and fish cooked in clay pots waiting to be devoured.

This is my third visit here. Somehow the wilderness seemed greener, the house more of a home, the staff Namal, Mahesh and chef Nelson — more part of the family. De-stressed and rested, I headed back to the chaos of Colombo knowing that I will return to this bliss soon.

Maithree Scoops Red Dot Photo Award

Harmony With Nature by Maithree has been selected as the winner of Red Dot’s 2010 photo competition.

The winner was chosen by the award-winning photographer Gareth Copley on a break from covering England’s cricket tour of Australia.

The winning picture can be seen here can be seen here.

Please can Maithree contact admin@reddottours.com with proof that the picture meets all qualification requirements.

Thanks to all who took part.

A 2011 competition will begin shortly

Diving Heaven on Earth: The Taprobane East Wreck

Imagine a canvas of pure white sand and aquamarine blue, a picture perfect tropical paradise beach with the endless bowl of the blue sky replaced by the ocean. Into this starkly beautiful landscape a two- hour boat ride from Colombo, had sunk a small boat.

Initially, it had probably sullied the pristine scene with its harsh man-made lines, oil and diesel leaking. Time has however had smoothed this out and now it is heaven underwater, the rusted shell covered in green and pink soft corals and fish exploding in a kaleidoscope of colour out of every nook and cranny.

An hour out by boat from Colombo Divers, the sun glittered off the waves as Ravindra the boatman positioned us over the tiny wreck. As we sank through waters with 30m-plus visibility, the rusted ship looked strangely abstract and as we got closer, amorphous. Nearing the bottom, the reason for the shape-shifting became obvious as an immense shoal of glassfish obscured the wreck, all moving as one. Literally pushing through the glinting shoal we moved over the sunken ship, settling down into the sand at the stern where the fish life was more languid but still diverse. An electric ray swam slowly into view while blue-lined snappers and fusiliers shoaled around us, a constant milieu of movement that was dazzling to the eye.

This was a dive where there was too much happening initially to absorb it all. The site is one that needs to be dived again and again to adjust to, and understand the nuances of the biodiversity that is so abundant on this small oasis of life amongst the white-sand underwater desert. I simply spent my last few minutes of non-decompression time swimming into the school of glassfish by myself and making

360 degree turns in the shoal, enjoying the sunlight arching through the thousand translucent fish. As the light glittered and splintered through them, bliss overcame me, 30m down in heaven.

Naren Gunasekera can provide expert advice on diving in Sri Lanka at Red Dot Tours

This was first published at www.offthebeatentracksl.blogspot.com

Copley announces shortlist in Red Dot photo competition

After much discussion we can now announce the shortlist in our inaugural 2010 Red Dot photo competition.

It was not a massive entry, but interest began to stir as the year reached its end and the lucky winner has the chance of a free flight to Sri Lanka.

If the free flight is unsuitable, we will consider a cash payment and charitable donation.

Red Dot’s directors, Charlie Austin and David Hopps slimmed down the entries to a final six
Smile: Ginger Hooper

Harmony with Nature: Maithree
Sunset near Bentota: Brian Fisher
Tuk tuk in wood: Jo Cowell
Cow Refreshment: Jo Cowell
Perfection: Ginger Hooper

This longlist was then judged by Gareth Copley, who broke off from his duties on England’s cricket tour of Australia, to draw up a final three. Copley, honoured this year in the World Press Photo awards when he won the sports photo of the year, whittled down the longlist to a shortlist of three. The winner will be announced before the end of the month.

The Red Dot photo competition shortlist for 2010 is:

Harmony With Nature: Maithree
Perfection: Ginger Hooper
Cow Refreshment: Jo Cowell

Expat Living Singapore praises Sri Lanka as “a rare gem”

Expat Living in Singapore says some lovely things about Sri Lanka – and about Red Dot Tours – in its current edition.

Expat Living focuses on what is happening for expatriates in Singapore, including travel, shopping and entertainment. We are not about to quibble about its exceedingly good taste!

“Discouraged by the unrest of the past few decades, large hotel developers stayed away. To accommodate the growing tourism trade, a unique portfolio of boutique properties emerged across the island. With this eclectic group of adventurous hoteliers came an infusion of Western cuisine, contemporary cocktails and impeccable service standards.”“So, despite its troubled political past – or perhaps because of it – Sri Lanka today is a rare gem, untarnished by large corporate chains and tourism booms. Instead of souvenir-laden markets and trumped-up cultural villages, you’ll find a rustic land of white sandy beaches, waterfalls and wildlife, UNESCO World Heritage sites and a populace more likely to offer an enthusiastic wave than an outstretched hand.”

Sri Lanka Is A Perfect Brew Says The Daily Mail

The Daily Mail has become the latest UK newspaper to hail the delights of Sri Lanka after the end of the civil war as the attractions of the country, long recognized by some, become apparent to a wider audience.

Mark Palmer begins his travel feature like this:

“We began with a night at the Wallawwa, a hotel about 20 minutes from Colombo airport. Hotels 20 minutes from most airports should be given a wide berth, but this was a wonderful way to ease into what was a hugely enriching whistle-stop tour.

“You are going to get hammered,’ said our driver, as we pulled up outside what once was the country retreat of a rich and powerful head chieftain. No problem, we thought, but then we realised that hammered was one of his favourite words. He would use it to describe any extreme form of activity. ‘We are hammering now,’ he would say when pounding down an open road.

“We did get hammered at The Wallawwa -  by the gorgeous gardens, excellent food and gentle service. Massages never quite do the trick for me, but I emerged from a 60-minute ayurvedic session in such a blissful state that my wife wondered if I’d swapped my statins for an exotic happy drug.

“Next day, en route to Anuradhapura, the ancient capital, we stopped briefly at the Elephant Orphanage, where you pay to feed young elephants milk and watch a herd of nearly 100 bathing in the river.

“We continued north, and a couple of hours later reached one of the newest, most ambitious hotels in the country. Perfectly placed for many of the major sites in day trips, the Ulagalla Wallawwa Resort is set in 58 acres of wetlands and comprises 25 huge villas built next to paddy fields, where peacocks stroll around without a care…”