Saman Villas, Closing in 2010 for refurbishment

The end of the north-east conflict is encouraging much-needed investment back into the tourism industry and the owners of Saman Villas are latest to annouce forthcoming refurbishments. A statement released earlier this week said: “With the ending of the three decade civil war, we have decided to revamp our properties to meet the demands of future tourism. We have decided to take advantage of the low occupancies predicted for next year and to utilize this period to refurbish Saman Villas.” The hotel, one of the leading hotels in Bentota, will be closed from 22 April to 22 July 2010. According to the management: “The major modifications will be to the guest rooms and toilets in all suites. All guest rooms will offer improved comfort levels while two suites will be converted to twins.

The toilets will offer a new concept with complete change of fittings with a floating bath tub and shower tray. Most public areas will be revamped, where roofing, flooring, furniture and fixtures will be changed. The entrance and reception area ponds will undergo a complete change, a more visually appealing effect with crystal clear water. Several other improvements, as well as maintenance work, will be carried out in order to add value to the product.” The management also control Mermaid Hotel & Spa and they have decided to reburbish this property as well, introducing nine new deluxe rooms, all of which will have direct sea-facing views and spacious new toilets. The public areas will also be enhanced.

Serene Pavilions.

If utter luxury and pampering is what you’re looking for on your next beach holiday, check out Serene Pavilions – an exquisite Balinese style boutique hotel in Wadduwa that I visited last weekend.  Only a few more details to put into place and it will be open for guests in October.  Accommodation here is fabulous and is in the form of individual pavilions within walled gardens designed to shut out the rest of the world and leave you in peace.  Each of the 12 pavilions is the size of a small house with a stylish bedroom (some have two), living and dining areas, bar, pantry and even a private plunge pool.  If you don’t feel like getting out of your own little holiday pavilion, then there is even a butler service and a gourmet chef who will cook your meals and serve you in style.  The in-house Spa which will be run by Six Senses is due to open soon, and the best part is, even the spa treatments will be brought to your own pavilion! There was more in store for me to discover as I was doing a walkabout.  A swimming pool with sunken Jacuzzi beds, gym, and a fine dine dining restaurant by the sea.  I was told the Chandeliers for the restaurant were arriving soon.  Can’t wait to get back to see Serene Pavilions once all the finishing touches are in place.

Seenigama and Community Aid Tourism.

It’s hard to imagine that it’s been almost five years since the horrendous Boxing Day Tsunami of 2004. So many lives lost and livelihoods destroyed.  The wrath of Mother Nature was unleashed on innocent lives in such a destructive way that a beginning thereafter seemed unthinkable for many.  Out of this misery and devastation was born the `Foundation of Goodness’, a movement of goodwill and `unconditional compassion’ that has helped thousands of families affected by the Tsunami in the Seenigama area on the South cost.  Founded by Kushil Gunasekera, whose ancestral home serves as the nerve centre of this project, the movement reaches out to men, women and children strengthening their inner being, their skills and knowledge, and creating a brighter future for each and every one of them.

I visited the foundation’s headquarters in Seenigama on Saturday 12 September because Red Dot is keen to set-up a long-term partnership to develop Community Aid Tourism, a new concept of travel for those people wanting a holiday that is a little bit different than the archetypal two weeks on a poolside sun lounger. We’ve realised that more people are open to the idea of a few days relaxing and a few days participating in really good grassroots community projects like the Foundation of Goodness. So Kushil and the RDT team are now working out exactly how we can help create real life-changing experiences and build long-term partnerships with people all around the world.

When I arrived, bleary-eyed after an early departure from Colombo, the village was already buzzing with activity.  Young men and women learning web & graphic designing, electrical wiring, dress making, hair styling, English language and business development skills; mothers and their infants attending the Paediatric clinic; the village U13 cricket team playing against another school in the magnificent Seenigama Oval – built with assistance from Surrey CCC – that has been built alongside a 23-meter swimming pool donated by Bryan Adams.  There was much excitement over the women’s cricket team which came together for the first time on that Saturday.  Much has been achieved through sports and the likes of Murali, Chaminda Vaas, Shane Warne to name a few, have all played an active role in coaching the kids and providing financial support.  Ian Botham was being expected soon for a week’s cricket coaching camp.  Soon, Kushil hopes to extend the activities to the North and East coast which is desperately in need of the Foundation’s healing touch.

As the movement goes from strength to strength, the need for financial support as well as those willing to donate their time and knowledge is great.  There are thirty odd programmes that one can get involved in which are described at length on their website: www.unconditionalcompassion.org .  I was drawn to the `heartbeat village’ a project by a tranquil river with a small library that benefits so many village children and adults. The few books on the shelves were well read.  The need for new titles seemed dire.  I left Seenigama that afternoon planning to return soon with boxes full of interesting books.

Increased Leopard sightings in Uda Walawe.

The naturalist for Mahoora camping, Thilak Obeysekera, who has been based in Udawalawe Mahoora Camp for more than a month now, informs us that Leopard sightings in Uda Walawe are on the rise. The highlight has been the sighting of two leopards on June 7 at Habakagala Rock. This is good news for all wildlife lovers especially for those who do not want to make the long drive up to Yala National Park. Udawalawe National Park is possible as a day trip from the south coast and it’s an ideal excursion during a beach holiday.

Overnight camping resumes in Uda Walawe.

Good news for wildlife lovers. The Wildlife Conservation Department has announced this week that all camp sites and bungalows within the Uda Walawe National Park are now once again open to the public to stay. Earlier in the year, the park officials stopped issuing permits to the public to use the campsite and the parks five bungalows due to security reasons. This was only a precautionary measure and now the park is back to its former glory.

The park has three very well located camping sites. Camping within the park would be the best way to enjoy Uda Walawe to its fullest. You get to be the first to explore the park in the morning and the last to go back to the camp site, giving one all the best chances to spot some of the rare animals of Uda Walawe. Asian Elephants are easy to see in Uda Walawe and can usually be seen throughout the day. Leopard and the smaller cats like Jungle Cat & Rusty Spotted Cat can be seen during the early morning and late evenings.

Sri Lanka has three luxury camping operators who offer an amazing experience within Udawalawe National Park. Try a two night’s camping adventure at Udawalawe National Park with Kulu Safari, Leopards Safaris orMahoora Camping.

Horton Plains, New rules, New experience.

Horton Plains comprises a gently undulating highland plateau at southern end of the central mountain massif of Sri Lanka. Sri Lanka’s second and third highest peaks, Kirigalpotha (2,395m) and Thotupola Kanda (2,357m), are found here. Three important rivers, the Mahawali, Kelani and Walawe originate from the Horton Plains.

SriLankan Airlines launch Economy Plus.

SriLankan Airlines announced on Wednesday that they’ll be offering a new “Economy Plus” service from 1 Sept on their London to Colombo route. A media release said: “Enjoy the comfort of a seat pitch of 35 inches and an exclusive, relaxed cabin ensuring you arrive at your destination in better shape. Seats will start from Row 10 to 14.” The new service will cost an additional £50 each way. Passengers can book in advance through their agent or can upgrade on check-in subject to availability.

The spectacular Kandy Perehera.

One of the great thrills of being a Red Dot chauffeur guide is taking clients to the Kandy Esala Perehera, the island’s most colourful and dramatic street pageant, which takes place in the days leading up to the Esala Poya Day in August. This year I escorted Tony and Trudi Barringer, a charming couple from Cambridge, UK. Tony was mesmerised by the experience and would not stop talking afterwards as we travelled on to Ellerton Lodge. For those thinking about coming to Sri Lanka next August, don’t miss it! The dancers, drummers, fire-eaters and the colourfully draped Elephants that troupe elegants down the streets makes for a spell-binding spectatcle. I think Trudy and Tony will never forget their evening and will have travelled home with a very special memory. They were so excited that they are already talking about their next trip to Sri Lanka when they might travel to the deep south and also to the north. Perhaps it will be my first trip to Jaffna? I hope so.

Birding at Mihintale.

Declared a sanctuary for animals in the 3rd century BC by Arahath Mahinda, Mihintale is one of the hidden treasures of the Cultural Triangle. If you have an keen interest in ancient history or natural history, Mihintale is a great place to spend a few days.

In a resent birdwatching trip to this ancient city, I was able to see over 100 species of birds in just three days. This included many migrant and residents. Highlights included the Black Drongo, Common Hoopoe, Blue-faced Malkoha and many species of water birds.

You can also get a unique experience by watching or taking part in the life of the villagers in the area. It was paddy harvesting time (March) and whole families were in the paddy fields helping each other to harvest their crops. Though machines have replaced the bulls and bullock carts, some old traditions still remain.  The farmers wife will cook a traditional meal and bring lunch for all the people at work, friends and neighbours also help in the harvesting and this is done on a voluntary basis.

You can also spend a whole day exploring the Mihintale rock and the monastery.  There are many ancient caves, remains of old building like hospitals, dinning areas, etc. It would be best to have a guided tour of Mihintale so that you get to know the story behind each and every historical monument.

You can either visit Mihintale as a day trip based from Sigiriya, Dambulla or Habarana. You will need a full day for this and it would be a long one! Best place to stay would be in Anuradhapura where you can visit the ancient city and also visit Mihintale. There are some very good resthouses and hotels in this area.

Christmas shopping in Galle Fort.

Fed up with the frenzy of shopping and pre-Christmas buzz in Colombo, I escaped to Galle Fort for a peaceful couple of days with friends. My nagging list of unfinished things-to-do and a rather lengthy Christmas gift list was happily put aside to do when I return from my much earned r & r. Our hideout in Galle Fort was The Courtyard, a really nice and homely Dutch period villa at the corner of Lighthouse & Pedlar Street. I soon discovered, this was the best corner to be at this time of year!

It was December 22nd and life was getting on at the usually slow pace inside Fort with the vegetable vendor going door-to-door with his cart full of fresh veges, couples under colourful umbrellas on the ramparts, and children playing cricket by the lighthouse. Strolling along the maze of streets, there was so much more waiting to be discovered…. shops, museums, art galleries, cafes and restaurants all just around the corner. Out came my unfinished shopping list. Glittering Bindi bangles from Lollapalooza, a fun floppy hat from Barefoot, chunky turquoise beaded chain from the Dutch Museum shop, from Roots a colourful painting of a map of Galle Fort on a ceramic tile, an exquisite piece of pottery form the Orchid House, a slinky silk blouse from Mimimango, and a copy of `Around the Fort in 80 Lives’ by Juliet Coomb from the Kahanda Kanda shop. All done and having indulged in many a cup of latte and home made brownies at the Pedlar’s Inn, I decided this was the most enjoyable and stress free Christmas shopping spree I had ever done. A great holiday all in all with so much fun and good times!

Bawa House 87.

Just before the Christmas rush I was able to escape for a day to visit some new properties in the Bentota area last week. One of these was the wonderful Bawa House 87 where I spent an utterly peaceful morning.  Enter through the large white gates and an instant sense of serenity takes over as your eyes gaze down the green lawns leading to a lake.  Set on 17 acres of jungle gardens, lakes, and marshland, this inspiring setting was created by Geoffrey Bawa in the 1960’s for artist Lydia Gunasekera.  The property is now opened for guests and has two tastefully designed bungalows – The Pavilion with two double rooms and The Shop House which has two single rooms.  Similar to Bawa’s Lunuganga situated close by, the gardens at Bawa House 87 are a work of art in itself with meandering  pathways, gigantic Bird’s Nest ferns, 100 year old Banyan and Tamarind trees and plenty of exotic birds hovering on the tree tops.   This is an oasis of calm and tranquility.

Feel Negombo 2009.

With less than a month to go, Negombo is fast sprucing up for `Feel Negombo 2009’ – a beach festival to be held from 11-13 December organised by Sri Lanka Tourism Board. Planned along the lines of the popular Hikkaduwa Beach Festival, this event promises even more. From colourful street parades, adventurous watersports, family bonfires to late night rave parties – there’s something for all ages and this is being marketed as a family-friendly event. There will be catamaran rides, snorkelling, jet-skiing, and paint-balling to name just a few of the activities. By night Negombo’s beautiful shores will come alive with the pulsating rhythms of the Brazilian drummers and Sri Lanka’s own fabulous fusion musicians – Triloka and Elephant Foot drummers. For more programme information check out www.feelnegombo.com, www.srilanka.travel

Hot Air Ballooning.

Some good news just in: the adventurous can once again look forward to soaring high above the untouched wilderness, ancient ruins and rock temples of the Cultural Triangle. From November, Red Dot is once again able to offer hot air balloon safaris from Kandalama to Dambulla. Galle is another spectacular location for hot air ballooning. A typical trip would start at dawn and last for about an hour depending on the prevailing winds. Flights depart about 15kms inland from Galle and rises to about 2,000ft – 3,000ft providing a panoramic view of Galle’s inland lakes and waterways, beautiful south coast shoreline, and the 17th century Dutch Fort. Ballooning trips are offered daily throughout the season from November to April when the winds are light and the sky at its bluest. For further information: Click Here

Sleepy Beaches and South Coast Water Sports.

It’s late October in Sri Lanka. I arrived from England last week expecting to spend my first month on the island seeing out the end of the monsoon – nothing of the sort! The weather has been glorious.

I am sharing a flat in Colombo whilst working for a few months for Red Dot, but I took the chance to head south on my first weekend back here after 2 years away. I took something of a quick beach tour from my weekend base in Galle’s beautiful fort – consisting of Mirissa, a few drinks and a game of beach football at Talpe, and Bentota.

First, I moseyed down to Sri Lanka’s Deep South and to Mirissa beach; sleepy by reputation, and very sleepy upon my arrival. See www.mirissa.com for a look at the beach – although remember that Red Dot Tours has the best accommodation advice! I know that October is still low season, but where is everyone? I found myself standing, bathed in sunshine and vivid blue skies, on a quiet, cracking little paradise beach. ‘Lucky me’ I thought, but isn’t this what the holiday-goer classically craves?

A couple of owners of beach properties said they don’t intend to fully open up until November is well underway, but my advice is don’t be afraid to beat the rush and get yourself over here from early November onwards. The sea was still easily hospitable enough for a decent dip thank you very much…

Just short of the island’s most south town of Matara, I went to along to check out Mirissa Water Sports www.mirissawatersports.com who, having benefitted from the Tsunami Aid development programme, run good sailing, fishing, and dolphin and whale watching from the harbour. Red Dot is updating its risk assessment, so I have been armed with forms and asking lots of questions.

Sunday’s route back up to Colombo from Galle saw me and friends stop more or less halfway at Bentota – the famous water-sports heart of Sri Lanka. I learn that surprisingly, although Bentota is one of the island’s more popular resorts, the vast, sandy beach is relatively quiet and it is an excellent diving location. The beach can be divided into two, the north end comprising a spit of land – dubbed “Paradise Island” – dividing the waves of the Indian Ocean from the still waters of the Bentota Lagoon.

We took a left off the Galle Road (heading north) and dropped in on Sunshine Water Sports, off the Ganga River. From here, you can get fully stuck in to array of water sports options: water skiing, wakeboarding, knee boarding, jet skiing, and banana boating. Or, something more relaxing might take your fancy – go deep-sea fishing or take a boat safari down the river to view the coast. If you are looking to stay, head towards the more pleasing southern end of the sandy beach where you’ll find some of the island’s best upmarket hotels, restaurants and watering holes. Bentota is worth it.

Now I have to work out what’s next on the agenda. Next weekend could either be all green dungarees and handle-bar moustaches for Colombo’s very own Bavarian beer festival – Oktoberfest –or perhaps I need to get out of the city and sit on a beach… why not Hikkaduwa? … Happy days.

Sri Lanka Design Festival 09.

A week of creative inspiration is on the cards for those interested in creative design. Sri Lanka Design Festival 2009, a pioneering effort that is expected to attract a global audience, will take place from Nov 27 to Dec 05 in Colombo. Conceptualised by the Academy of Design in Colombo and sponsored by the Government of Sri Lanka, a host of private sector companies and the British Council, the design festival will promote Sri Lanka’s creative industries from heritage crafts such as handloom textile weaving, pottery, and Beeralu lace making to contemporary arts and crafts, fashion design, and architecture. Well known local and foreign design personalities will conduct creative workshops, discussions, fashions shows and art exhibitions under the festival themes of `Design without Limits, Garments without Guilt, and Ideas without Boundaries.’ The festival events are to be held at the BMICH, Barefoot gallery and other venues in Colombo. For more details see:www.srilankadesignfestival.com

Etihad returns and SriLankan add new flights.

Some good news for Sri Lanka travelers: Etihad Airlines announced this week that they will resuming flights to Sri Lanka from January 2010. They will be operating four flights per week from Abu Dhabi to Colombo. Flight EY266 will depart Abu Dhabi on Monday, Wednesdays, Fridays and Sundays at 2155 and arrive at Colombo’s Bandaranaike International Airport at 0345 the following day. Return flight EY267 will depart Colombo on Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays at 0445 and arriving in Abu Dhabi at 0800 the same morning. Etihad had stopped flights in late 2007 due to a slump in demand but the end of the north-east conflict means the route should be profitable. Etihad’s return will provide tourists with another good option for travelling to Sri Lanka and hopefully ensure some extra competition to keep prices down. Hot on the heels of this news, SriLankan Airlines announced that it would be increasing flights to 12 cities worldwide based on rising tourist numbers. Tourist arrivals jumped 31% in August 2009 compared to the same month the previous year. Two flights have been added to the popular London-Colombo service.

Back of beyond, Kahandamodara…

I was on tour down south last week, checking old properties and visiting some new ones, and I was fortunate to discover my perfect escape: Back of Beyond Kahandamodara.  Remote and truly back of beyond, this place is off the main A2 road about half an hour before you get to Tangalle coming via Nonagama Junction from Uda Walawe. The property is set on eleven acres of wilderness and mangroves by an estuary where the Uruboku Oya meets the sea. Having actually found it, leaving behind the peace and tranquillity of this place the next morning was so difficult.  Although I preferred to just lie in my verandah watching peacock strutting about and having the wind blowing through my hair, the staff did convince me there was much to explore.  So I set off on a walk through the estate, got in knee deep into the river that flows at the edge of the property, and onto the Oruwa which took us ever so slowly upto the beach.  Except for two fishermen drying their nets, the beach was all ours…so secluded only with our own footprints engrained in the sand.  A quite evening under a starlit night, a restful night in what was rustic yet quite a stylish room with cement rendered beds and a soothing blend of colours, I woke up next morning plotting and planning my return with a friend who I’m sure would love to have a Yoga retreat here.

Kikili Beach, Thalpe’s colourful beach hideout

Located on one of Thalpe’s beautiful small bays, Kikili Beach is breath of fresh air in terms of a private beach villa. The creation of Henri Tatham, the long-standing manager of the Sun House and the award-winning Dutch House, it feels the increasing demand for small one or two bedroom villas. Henri’s larger-than-life personality fills the Kikili Beach with character. The villa is cute, fun and colourful. The price is also an absolute bargain. The one downside is the absence of a swimming pool, but there are a variety of swimming beaches in the area and there are also some hotels that will allow you to spend the day beside their pools if you fancy lounging by a pool. The villa also has a lovely garden with comfy seating, including a great Ambalama (pavilion) overlooking the beach. The villa itself includes one en suite bedroom that is airconditioned. There is a small kitchen and breakfast area. The lounge has a comfortable day bed that can be used for a child. The villa is 10 minutes drive from Galle Fort and there is plenty to do in the local area including watersports, whale-watching trips, deep sea fishing and inland bike rides. If, like me, you like birding then Koggala Lake is another wonderful experience. Eagle Island has about 100 nesting Eagles, and there are other small islands with nesting parrots and a variety of bird species.

RedDot dash to Trinco

Red Dot are committed to regular hotel checks and May is a month which offers us opportunities to escape the office from time to time to check out new hotels and also to catch up with those who have become a well-known part of Sri Lanka’s holiday scene.

So this time it was obvious where we were heading – the east coast and Trinco, which is reopening to tourists again. Since May is the start of the beach season on the east coast, we were
all excited to see what Trinco holds for us.

I am not much of a beach person — everyone in office knows that — but I was actually looking forward to seeing the amazing white beach and clear blue seas of Trinco which I last visited when I was four-years-old. I still remember playing on the white sand.

We did a few stops en route in Dambulla, Sigiriya and Habarana to see some hotels. Amaya Lake particularly appeals to me because of its simple, natural feel, but the rest of the party told me it was time to go and pushed me into the minibus. So we reached Trinco rather late around 6pm. The clear blue sky and hot weather which prevails in this part of the island during this time of year was a great change to the monsoon-hit west coast. The evening was wonderful, the sea was calm, and the beach was so wide it was like a rugby ground. I was tempted to rush in and have a dip but the cosy room I was in at Chaaya Blu kept me back.

I was very keen on seeing the sunrise on the east coast for the first time, so I was up very early the next morning (after a late night) and walked down to the beach at 5.30am by which time it was quite bright. A lovely clear sunrise from the beach of Trinco was even better than I expected and this song kept playing in my head ‘Turn on the sun, turn on the sun light up the world, come everyone!’

I wanted so badly to jump in to the sea but since my swimming skills are a disgrace I decided to wait till the rest of the Red Dot team woke up and we all headed to the sea. You could keep walking in to the sea for a long time and the water was still only waist deep, perfect for me. I highly recommend a dip.

We also visited the Nilavali Beach where I stayed on my visit as a child, and this beach is even better and the sand was as white as I remember. We so wanted to spend the rest of the day dipped in this wonderful blue swimming pool but the clock was ticking and we had to head back to Colombo and visit more hotels on the way back (and Wilpattu National Park- which was not on the original plan but more of that in my next blog).

We drove to Anuradhapura from Trinco on the A12 road which was a wonderful drive. The road was a bit bumpy but it was all light jungle and beautiful wetlands along the way. Perfect for some birdwatching but no such luck for me this time!
The ‘season’ in Trinco lasts for most of the year and May to Oct is the best time to visit.

The newly-refurbished Chaaya Blu and Nilavali Beach Hotel are the two 4 star hotels you can stay here with Palm Beach Hotel a good guest house in Uppavali which can be recommended. I am sure other hotels and guest houses will now be springing up and rest assured the Red Dot team will be heading that way again soon to check them out.

Morningside, Sinharaja… A true heaven on earth!

I have long dreamt of the day I would get a chance to visit the eastern part of the famous Sinharaja Rainforest. Since access to this section is quite remote with a 4WD jeep is a must and the only place to stay being a forest department bungalow, getting there has been a challenge. However, thanks to some friends who got together and planned the trip, my long awaited dream was realised.

The entire forest complex of Sinharaja is currently considered as an International Man and Biosphere reserve. It has also been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The majority of its land area is lowlands. However, a small but a significant proportion spreads across higher altitudes. To be more precise, the eastern part of the Sinharaja MAB reserve falls within the sub-montane region of Sri Lanka. Despite the exceedingly small land coverage, the Eastern Sinharaja is extremely rich in biodiversity and endemism.

May is not the best time to visit a rainforest as it is usually the start of the monsoon season, however, thankfully, we just managed to avoid the rain and have three wonderful days there. They said the area was named as ‘Morningside’ as it feels like it is morning all day long with the mist rolling across the hills. True to its name we did not feel the time passing by as we enjoyed the cool weather which was a relief from the heat in Colombo.

You need to go on the A4 road passing Rathnapura and get on the A18 and turn off from Madampe junction on B17 road to Deniyaya. About 35km on this windy road you get the turn off to Morningside which is a 7Km drive on the worst road in the country without a doubt! The most wonderful views of virgin rainforests across the hills and valleys compensates for the jolting ride to the bungalow.  The bungalow only has solar power so electricity is limited to a few lights in the night. There are no phones and only one mobile service works – and that one only if you’re lucky! It is therefore the perfect place to get away from it all.

This path to the bungalow is full of the most rare and wonderful fauna and flora. I was thrilled to see many species of butterflies along the way and was able to photograph some of these jewels of the forest. Countless number of Tamil Treebrowns – both male & females engaging in courtship displays, the elusive Tawny Raja, the Ceylon Snowflat, a very obliging Plum Judy & Great Eggfly were some of the highlights. We also had two Common Blue Bottle butterflies mud sipping right behind our bungalow I was able to photograph this hyper active butterfly – at rest for once.

There were plenty of Dragonflies as well with the very rare Fiery Emperor, Yerbury’s Elf & Jungle Threadtail crossing our path. I also managed to see and photograph the Ceratophora erdeleni which is horned lizard found only in this part of the country and nowhere else on earth.

Morningside is home to most of the lowland endemic birds of Sri Lanka as well as the highland endemics which you would normally not get to see on the southern parts of the Sinharaja Forest Reserve. Since the forest cover is very thick here birds are mostly heard rather than seen. The Green-billed Coucal, flocks of Yellow-eared Bulbul & Sri Lanka White-eye along with Dull-blue Flycatchers, Sri Lanka Jungle-fowl, a Black Eagle soaring through the low clouds were some of the highlights.

The forests also is home to the Leopard, Sambar, Mouse Deer, Otter, and even s few remaining elephants. Many species of amphibians are also found in this forest with many more new species still to be discovered.

Morningside Sinharaja is a rare jewel that Sri Lanka still possesses. The constant pressure on it by the surrounding tea plantations are telling on it. The forest cover is a fraction what it was many years back and we do hope it will survive for the next generation to enjoy this most wonderful treasure.

I am already making plans for my return trip to this most wonderful place on earth!

Chaaya Blu opens in Trinco.

The dawning of peace in Sri Lanka last year opened up the exciting potential for tourism in the east coast and the first visible sign of this is the opening of Chaaya Blu last week. Owned by John Keells Hotel Group and called Club Oceanic previously, the “retro-chic” four-star beach hotel was conceptualised by master architect Channa Daswatte and inspired by the James Bond movie, ‘Die Another Day’.

Speaking after the opening, Deputy Chairman of John Keells Holdings Ajit Gunewardene said: “This ‘70s property now revamped as a stylish retro-chic product will also set trends in modern resort interiors being outside the typical Sri Lankan resort design. However, despite the uniqueness of its design, what the hotel truly promotes is an exploration of its surroundings; from the scenic white beaches to the popular sites, flavours and culture of the locality.”

Here are some excerpts from their recent media release:

Daswatte says he wanted to have some retro-fun with the old building and went “slightly off the wall!” Given that Trincomalee’s landscape has fewer trees complimented by a sea that transforms from emerald to turquoise depending on the time of day, he created Chaaya Blu, “with a ring of the hip and to relive some of those lost teenage years, which was a very energetic period.” And so he brought in the cool easy relaxation that’s so du rigueur to unwind. Take in the mosaic walls in the foyer; the cool interiors of the white rooms with its white painted clay lamps and terra cotta tiles dipped in white paint for a touch of the Caribbean; polished cement beds with tie and dye and mosaic walls and Wetakeiya rugs and lots of denim complimenting the mid-century Scandinavian limed furniture. The design encompasses the unparalleled view of the sea from anywhere in the resort – from the bar, the restaurant, the combination of bleached wood decks that encircle the resort or the centralised spaces where wining and dining anywhere is mandatory. There’s even a beach bar built around a Banyan Tree which overlooks Swami Rock and a timber deck that stretches from the reception, all the way to the beach and out into the sea to create an infinite panorama of the sea.

National Geographic lists Sri Lanka 2nd best island destination.

First came the New York Times accolades and now National Geographic has brought Sri Lanka into the tourism spotlight again announcing that Sri Lanka was rated their second best island destination in the world this year. The accolade puts Sri Lanka ahead of St. Lucia, Hong Kong, Seychelles, Bali, Sicily, Manhattan island, Mauritius, and even exotic Zanzibar. In an interview, Jill Crawshaw, travel writer for The Times and Lyn Hughes, editor of Wonderlust magazine, highlights Sri Lanka’s secluded and unspoilt beaches, exotic wildlife, ancient heritage and spicy cuisine – all this within a relatively small space that is easily accessible.

Yes, Sri Lanka is an island nation that is blessed with so much – especially a colourful mix of culturally diverse people that have the precious ability to smile from their hearts and share their unhurried lifestyles with others. Having the best surfing beaches (Sri Lanka is listed as one of 10 best surfing spots in the world); the best locations to spot the largest land mammal (elephant) as well as the largest marine mammal in the surrounding Indian Ocean waters (Blue whale); ruins of kingdoms that tells of a an ancient and sophisticated civilization; treasures of precious gems, tea and cinnamon; and a myriad of breathtaking landscapes that change within minutes of travel…., one is truly spoilt for choice on which direction to head on your holiday in Sri Lanka. No wonder most travellers come to this island and never want to leave.

Sri Lanka’s other half… The birds of Mannar Island

Having finally had the chance to visit the North of Sri Lanka after many years, some of my birding pals planned a trip to experience and enjoy the bounty of bird life in the other half of Sri Lanka.

First on the list was Mannar Island. Mannar Island and the strip of land on the mainland from around Giant’s tank is a magnet for birders in search of species who are not found regularly in the southern half of the island. Having heard of the many rarities that have been seen here in the past, I was beyond excited to get there.

The drive to Mannar was a great experience having driven along the new road across Wilpathu National Park (which really should not be open due to the bad affect it is already having on the wildlife in the park). We got to Giant’s Tank by afternoon, a quick lunch at the Navy camp and we were walking along the bund of this enormous man-made reservoir.  Birds were plenty with the water levels quite low. I had finally seen this famous place which was known in the old days as the best place for duck hunting.

We got to our guesthouse rather late in the evening and after a quick dinner hit the sack for an early morning start the next day.

Varnkale Sanctuary was the target for next morning. This very important wetland area was made a sanctuary a few years back by the Wildlife department based on the information and recommendation of the Ceylon Bird Club. As expected the bird life here was amazing. Within a very short time I was able to see 5 new species of birds (‘Lifers’) which are what we call Mannar specials: Eurasian Wigeon, Pied Avocet, Common Teal, Bar-tailed Godwits and my long awaited Greater Flamingos (Yes I had not seen this bird till now and have looked for it for over 9 years).

The next day we visit another wetland which was nearly totally covered with ducks! Over 30,000 was the estimate. Northern Pintail, Northern Shoveler, Gargany & Eurasian Wigeon were the composition. The Great Black-headed Gulls were also in their numbers here. Wild ponies came to water to drink while we were watching the birds, I felt like I had been transformed to another land.

We spent the next 2 days travelling the length and breadth of Mannar – at least to the places that we were allowed to travel to. Many more ‘lifers’ were added to my list. A total of 11 new birds on the trip – record breaking!

I also experienced watching both the sun rise and sun set from Mannar which was truly memorable experience with the Greater Flamingos in their hundreds flying past the rising sun.

Ops, nearly forgot to mention about the most amazing beaches in Mannar towards the Tali-Mannar area. The sea was absolute crystal clear blue water with white sandy beach with no one expect a few Heuglin’s Gulls to keep you company! And you can walk in to the sea for quite long way with water only up to your knees.

We sadly did not get a chance to taste the famous Mannar Crabs and decided we will be back again for that very soon.

The infrastructure in Mannar is just getting in to place. For accommodation there are a couple of guesthouses and unless you’re a die-hard bird watcher you may not put up with the basic standards there. However come next migrant season, we are sure to have lots of new places to stay and eat out. The main roads are all being done up making the drive there much faster and comfortable. Can’t wait to go back!

My visit to the dolphins’ beach party.

Sri Lanka’s north-west coast was alien territory for me and the name Kalpitiya only brought to mind images of a rural fishing village when I was told of my impending familiarization tour as a new recruit of the Red Dot sales team. Little did I know then that  the tour would culminate in one of the most exhilarating and unforgettable experiences  of my life.

The familiarization tour, with Kishani at the helm, went flawlessly and the numerous properties we visited on the north-west coast heralded a subtle extension of tourist facilities in an area that so far had remained unexplored and ignored.

Our final destination of the two-day tour was the small town of Alankuda and a resort named thus. The  Alankuda resort, set amidst the gently swaying palm trees and so in tune with nature, was breathtaking in its beauty.

Having the resort to ourselves was a boon and we set about enjoying ourselves by first plunging into Alankuda’s infinity pool that stretched seamlessly  towards the madly crashing waves of the ocean.  The starlit night, good food,  great company and sheer splendour and serenity of the resort made  us all feel millions of miles away from our daily lives in the Red Dot office on the outskirts of Colombo.

The next morning at the crack of dawn we were at the boat house, all geared up for the dolphin watching trip. Enlivened by a cup of hot tea before the staff arrived, away we went bouncing and jostling in a boat that was gathering momentum with each minute.  Half an hour in to the deep blue I still had not the much-anticipated dolphins. My heart was drooping with disappointment when the boat suddenly gathered more speed and spun forward and we gasped in delight at our first sight of these amazing creatures.

Suddenly after no dolphins, there were dolphins everywhere, swimming in pairs, swimming in groups, swimming in tandem in short bursts with their gleaming bodies half out of the water. To my untrained eye it looked like they were in a mad rush to get to a beach party that I had no invitation to. They frolicked, jumped and did twists and the exuberance of their movements was amazing to watch. Our gasps of admiration were intermingled with the clicking of the cameras as we vied with each other to capture the perfect shot.

The north-west really is undiscovered Sri Lanka and, with the reopening of the nearby Wilpattu game park, the area offers so many opportunities for nature lovers. I would recommend you not to miss this amazing experience. Back in the Red Dot office, those of us lucky to make the trip are still talking about it.

Wilpattu and Kumana reopens.

Wild life enthusiasts will be happy to note that Wilpattu National Park finally reopened last week after being closed for 25 years due to terrorism in the North.  After extensive mine clearing operations, the army has now declared it safe for the public to visit.   Fans of Wilpattu’s leopards have once again started making their frequent pilgrimage.  With Kumana Bird Sanctuary in the south also now reopen, all National Parks and bird sanctuaries are accessible once again.  Another birding hotspot these days is Mannar where migrant birds in their thousands including many varieties of ducks, gulls and terns can be spotted.

Magnificent Tantirimale.

One of the many blessings of a peaceful Sri Lanka is being able to explore some of the ancient sites that were hard to see just months ago. One such ancient marvel is Tantirimale, a magnificent site both humbling and inspiring. I visited recently at dusk as the sun was going down over the acres of granite rock surrounded by the jungles of Wilpattu.  You can sit here and stare for hours with the wind in your hair and sound of silence only interrupted from time to time by birds or a pilgrim that rings the temple bell.  Tantirimale’s ancient rock carvings and Bo tree has a history that dates back to the 3rd century BC.  A lily white stupa sits on the rock and the sacred Bo tree rustles in the wind.  Tantirimale is off the Puttalam – Anuradhapura road and can be easily accessed now that the security risks in the area have eased up and the roads are getting done up.

It’s Even Better Than The Brochure.

Happy New Year from Sri Lanka. No snow here. We are in peak holiday season and the Sri Lankan sun just wants to shine. After making some final checks of Red Dot’s first pdf brochure, I’ve been checking out the Southern beaches — and it has to be said it has been a more restful experience. They’ve hit the spot.

A short journey south-east along the coast from Galle leads you to a selection of paradise beach options. You will first come across the slightly busier cove of Unawatuna. With an underlying backpacker vibe, this is the most established party beach of the south, and has been for a while. By the evening, Kingfisher bar, and Hot Banana are fun options for those with a disposition for dancing in the moonlight.

Further along the coast towards Thalpe is Wijaya Beach. The name of this smaller stretch is adopted from the excellently-run beach Wijaya Beach Resort, which has really made a name for itself. Palm trees loom over the restuarant roof. Watch the sun fade behind the aptly-named Frog Rock, which looks out over the ocean horizon.

Christmas and New Year saw temporary tents and dance flooring set out on the beach, with patterned flags and embroidered banners draping the rafters. You could call it trendy by day, and funky by night. The Thai Green Currys, seared tuna, pizzas (from the resort’s own pizza oven), and Arrack Attack cocktails come highly recommended. Hop back on the coast road heading for Matara and you will find some beautiful beachside accommodation options regularly cropping up. The Thalpe coastline now deserves the label of Sri Lanka’s mini-riviera – just head to Era Beach Click Here), or The Fortress, Koggala, Click Here) and see for yourself.

Travelling further to the south-east must include at the very least a brief stop at the extra special Mirissa beach. The nearby Weligama beach stretch is your nearest small town and an alternative, equally good surfing spot at this time of year. In addition to surfing, Mirissa Waterports Click Here ) offers watersports galore, deep sea fishing and whale and dolphin watching.

There are some fantastic massage centres hidden away in the groves of the surrounding village, and no doubt an enthusiastic game of beach cricket will happen in the evening. For your dinner, cover all corners with a seafood barbeque as you sit out with sand between your toes. Options include reef shark (the author’s choice as a Christmas alternative to Turkey), barracuda, butter fish, tuna fish, king prawns and calamari squid.

On the other hand, if you are looking for a slightly different eating option, search out the small Sun and Sea guesthouse near to the rocky outcrop end of Mirrissa bay. Meet the friendly couple that run the show by themselves, and order you evening’s food in advance. It’s nothing smart, but the chef will not let you leave hungry and you will taste local Sri Lankan food at its most authentic.

As I think I said at the start, for variety and natural beauty, the southern beaches over Christmas hit the spot. I’m heading to India for a few months now, but I can’t wait to be back.

November dawns on Kalametiya Bird Sanctuary

The seasonal rains have been late coming this year at Kalametiya bird sanctuary Click Here , so the lagoon has not swelled and filled up as in previous years. However, I wait with baited breath. As soon as the waters begin to flow in and the waterholes begin to fill the birds will get a whiff of it on the wind and come forth.

I can hear the change from early in the morning. I’m used to waking up to the call of the peacocks from our roof or from the big ‘Palu’ tree in front of our house, but the day the rains begin to make a difference is something else.

The squawking of the Egrets vying for the small fry that will have ventured out into new waters from their dark shady pools in amongst the trees. The ‘did-he-do-it’ cries of the Red-wattled Lapwings as they try to stake their territory in the expanding wetlands. The whistling of the Lesser Whistling-ducks as they flock in together to test out the new visitors.

As soon as I open the front door to these noises I’m greeted by the glorious view of the busy, busy Spoonbills rapidly scanning the pools of water for food and if I’m really lucky the regal Painted Stork will be looming over the other bird life and dipping in for tasty morsels.

As the waters settle down and the initial excitement is over it’s time to enjoy throughout the day the swooping of the Bee Eaters, the hovering of the Pied Kingfishers and their cousins, the White-Throated Kingfisher and the Stork-billed Kingfisher. The beautiful White Bellied Fish Eagle might deign to swoop over the waters and of course the Brahminy Kites will always be present.

Wilst I wait for the rains to come I’ll just have to be content with our resident peacock, Freddie Feathers trying to impress the ladies (Peahens). Then there’s the on-going competition for the abundant juicy berries of the ‘Muliththan’ tree between the Red-Vented Bulbuls, Brown-Headed Barbets, Parrots, Mynas and Koels. As dusk approaches I’m happy to just get a glance at the discreet India Pitta out for an early evening peck. Then Freddie Feathers hops up into the ‘Palu’ tree to roost. If the rains are approaching he might call out during the night, otherwise it’ll be his 5am call heralding the dawn and the start of another day.

Survey Puts Sri Lanka Holidays no 1 For Value

A report by Post Office Travel Money has concluded that Sri Lanka holidays offer the best value for UK travellers out of all long-haul destinations.

Thailand holidays have often been praised for offering the best value, but in the latest Post office survey Thailand has nose-dived to sixth place as Sri Lanka has headed the list of rival countries anxious to attract UK tourists.

The Post Office said that since the end of the war the number of British travellers taking cheap flights to Sri Lanka was “already on a high”, with UK arrivals up 51 per cent year-on-year – and the trend was only likely to increase over the next few months.

Charlie Austin, director for Red Dot Tours said: “Sri Lanka has always offered remarkable holiday value. It is just that only now people are beginning to realize just how much money they can save. It succeeds as a holiday destnation at all ends of the market.”

The next countries named for long-haul value were Mexico and Kenya respectively, followed by Malaysia and Indonesia. The Post Office Travel Money report compiled the list using criteria such as the price of meals, drinks, suncream and gifts.

The head of the Travel Money division, Sarah Munro, said the good variety of cheap hotels and low-cost resorts, as well as a burgeoning boutique market to rival any in Asia, was a welcome development among many long-haul destinations.

“The information we have collected shows that Sri Lanka and Mexico offer excellent value for money,” she said.

The Sri Lanka Travel Blog could have told the Post office that years ago. But it is nice that people are catching on.

On the fringes of Hikkaduwa Beach Fest

My half-baked ideas for a painting the town red usually end up being memorable nights. The night of 30 July was no different: the first night of the Hikkaduwa Beach Festival. The past couple of years the Hikkaduwa Beach Festival had gained immense popularity although shrouded with some controversy. The 2010 Hikka Festival did not seem to garner the same crazed interest as the previous couple of years, but since I had no idea what the festival was all about I was determined to experience Hikka on this Friday night.

My friends from the Sun House – fondly known as the Galle Gang – were all in high spirits about the impending outing. So we set out for Hikkaduwa in four motorbikes after borrowing helmets from all and sundry in order to have a safe journey on roads overflowing with cops. I had not ridden pillion in over 20 years and the outing had the earmarks of a daring escapade.

We reached Hikkaduwa around 11.30pm with no clear plan how the night would unfold. The main street of Hikkaduwa was not dressed in its usual Beach Festival regalia except for the stretch near Amaya Reef where the festival was being held. But the festival mood was clearly visible with many people walking the streets and the overflowing eateries dotting the area. But we were disappointed when we heard that the entrance ticket to the Beach party would cost Rs.2,500 per person. None of my friends were ready to fork out that amount of cash on my harebrained scheme.

It did not take us long to settle on the next best option. We were going to experience the fringes of the Beach Festival by going to the popular night club Vibrations. The loud thump of the music beckoned us through the dimly lit lounge of Vibrations and we stepped in to a beach party in full swing. The atmosphere was wonderful and the house music was amazing. The dance floor was crowded with wreathing bodies undulating to the beat of the music.

We sat for a while and took in the scene before the irresistible beat drew us to the floor. What beach party in Sri Lanka is complete without getting in to fist cuffs? Not 10 minutes on the dance floor we see one of our friends being bashed by a complete stranger. We all gasped in horror and was about to intervene when the scuffle was broken up by what I now think was a Vibrations bouncer. We dragged our friend to safety and was curious to find out the reason for the altercation. No real reason except he bumped in to him on the dance floor!

The incident nearly put us off the whole outing and we were ready to go and chalk it up to experience. But the pulsating music and the smoky pungent atmosphere was too irresistible and we were back on the floor to have the most amazing night of pure uninhibited fun. The crowd at Vibration was a mixture of chilled-out tourists, lazy beach bums and visitors from Colombo who had come for the beach festival. Vibration was at its best that night with stints by a bongo band and fire dancers. I have no idea how the hours passed as I just let the music take over and it was 3am when we were finally ready to call it quits.

I am not sufficiently informed to talk about the Hikkaduwa Beach Festival as I did not make it to the actual beach party. But I would not have any hesitation in recommending a couple of nights stay in Hikkaduwa during the beach festival to imbibe in the wonderfully laid back party atmosphere.

Sri Lanka Travel Photo Competition

Good news for all you keen photographers: Red Dot has just launched an annual photography competition for Sri Lanka travellers. The competition is really easy to enter and the winner will receive a free flight to Sri Lanka valid for 12 months. There will also be additional prizes for runners-up including free accommodation stays and meals in Sri Lanka. So if you have recently visited, or if you are travelling before the end of December 2010, make sure you enter the competition and share your best holiday snaps with us.

For more information please see Red Dot Photo Challenge 2010